The Complete Apple Watch Comparison Chart (Tech Specs)

This article is valid as of April, 2025. It does not take into account watches that were released afterwards.

Intro

Every year, Apple comes out with a new Apple Watch, and they update their comparison page. They allow a maximum of 3 watches to be compared and it isn’t obvious what the actual differences are between the watches. I manually went through comparisons of each watch and I attempted to make a detailed table that makes things visually obvious what has or hasn’t changed between each watch.

Ken Rockwell has a detailed comparison page which was very close to what I aimed to do. Mine adds color 🌈 and tries to only focus on differentiating features.

TL;DR / Main Differences

Ultra 2 > 10 > Ultra > 9 >> 8 > 7 > 6 >> SE2 >> 5 > 4 > SE >> 3 >> 2 >> 1

I wouldn’t get anything below an SE2. Series 5 and below are no longer getting software updates.

Here’s what each watch adds over the SE2:

• Series 6 adds an always on screen, ECG, upgraded heart-rate sensor, blood oxygen sensor (not very useful in my opinion). Loses crash detection over the SE2
• Series 7 adds fast charging and 1mm screen size (neither are worth upgrading)
• Series 8 adds crash detection (hopefully you never need to use it)
• Series 9 adds a new processor, brighter screen, sleep apnea notifications. Newer series 9 removed blood oxygen capability.
  • This is the first major upgrade over the 6
  • They also advertise a feature called “double tap”, but that is actually available in older watches as an accessibility feature.
• Series 10 adds a 2mm bigger and slightly better screen, water depth, water temperature.
• Ultra adds scuba diving capability, twice as long battery, better microphones and speakers, better GPS. But it has an older processor (same as series 6-8).
• Ultra 2 adds a brighter screen, same processor as 9+

Very few people actually need the Ultra, but the extra battery life is pretty nice.

Comparison Table

This is probably what you came here for. The technical specification (tech specs) comparison table. The table is pretty big (75 rows, 15 columns) and is best viewed on desktop. I know there’s a lot of data there (even more data at the “Full Detail” sheet). If this gives you data overload, that’s totally understandable. Stick to the TLDR / Main Differences and Choosing a Watch sections for my conclusions.

Google Sheets Link

Choosing a Watch

Processor

Apple watch’s main upgrade happens every ~3 years whenever the processor (SiP = System in Package) gets upgraded:

• S4 SiP = Series 4, 5, SE
• S6 SiP = Series 6, 7, 8, SE2, Ultra
• S9 SiP = Series 9, 10, Ultra 2

The takeaway from this is if you’re going to get, for example, a series 5, you’re better off getting a series 6. If you’re going to get an 8, you’re better off getting a 9. It’s only a one year jump in watch but a ~3 year jump in processor. The processor will be faster and the watch will be supported with software updates for a few years longer.

Your budget may also force you into one of the camps. Newer processor camp will be more expensive than the older processor camps. For reference, as of 2025, you can get series 6 apple watches on eBay for ~$100, series 9 for ~$200. Typically used watches fall off in price pretty good after a year or two. Unless a watch with a new processor was just released, buying a used watch can be a great way to get a similar-to-new performing watch at a decent discount.

Screen Size

Now that you know which “processor camp” you’re aiming for, the next step would be to decide how big you want the watch to be. If you have a small wrist (female), you might not like the larger watches. Ex. if you don’t like the larger watches, then you won’t be getting an Ultra as those are only available in 49mm.

If you live close to one, I’d recommend going into an Apple store (or any place that sells Apple watches) and trying them on to get a feel for things!

Cellular Connectivity

At this point, you should be down to a smaller number of potential watches. The main feature to decide on is do you want cellular connectivity or not. Cellular connectivity is only needed if:

• You want to get notifications on your watch whenever your phone is not nearby (Ex. going for a run without your phone or while surfing)
  • And you don’t mind paying a monthly fee for this capability
• You want the ability to make emergency 911 calls

A cellular data plan for your watch will typically cost ~$10/mo. Worth noting that even without a cellular data plan, the cellular watches will still be able to make emergency calls, even without active service. GPS only watches cannot make emergency 911 calls if you are not nearby your phone as they do not have the required hardware (cell modem) to place a call on their own. This is why I got my parents cellular-capable watches, even though the watches are not connected to a cell plan.

Features

• If you want the best battery life (36hr), you’ll need to get an Ultra. Otherwise, you’ll have ~18hr of battery.
  • This can be extended by turning off the “always on display”.
• ECG is available on most watches
• Due to a patent dispute, blood oxygen readings are only available with older watches
• Sleep apnea detection, crash detection, water temperature, water depth are only available on newer models

Outro

Thanks for reading, I hope this helped. Please let me know of any suggestions or corrections in the comments below.

The best ways to thank me are by simply following my social media accounts here or by purchasing your watch (with no extra cost to you) through one of my referral links in the top column of the comparison table.